Archive for the ‘Horses’ Category

Ever since I was a little girl, I hoped and prayed for a horse to call my own. It became a ritual every birthday and Christmas that I would first check the property for a horse tied up to the plum tree, or stabled in the garage with the family sedan. Of course, I was totally naïve as to the expense of owning a horse and so I was always disappointed. Somewhere in my teens I gave up on the dream. So it was at the more mature age of 31 that my dream was finally realised and I became the owner of a precious baby girl (well, 14-year-old ex-Pacer, Standardbred mare). But to me she was my new baby and she came with the most perfect name, Angel.

So here was my dream, in living colour, high spirits and dignified stubbornness. I … well I was an untrained and inexperienced, though willing, Mum of one huge equine. I had no gear and even less of an idea. So began my training to become a suitable mum for my beloved dream come true.

The first step was to read books; lots of them. However none of them can physically prepare for the task of caring for a horse. I learned a lot since obtaining Angel, because I just had to get out there and do it, or ask someone else how to do it. I have a lot more to learn yet and I find it a rewarding and exciting path. This article provides some basics for anyone considering getting a pony or horse or who has just landed that dream and does not know where to start, just as I began my journey.

It is important that you talk to experts such as your vet and local horse club for professional advice. Other helpful tips and suggestions can be obtained through talking to horse owners, phoning or visiting the local pony club, or joining a horse forum on the Internet. Horse people love to talk about horses.

There are numerous breeds of horses available. You will need to look for an animal that has the correct temperament, abilities and height. Breeds such as thoroughbreds are tall and can be too high-spirited for a beginner. A Standardbred, like Angel, has an unusual gait (movement) which is uncomfortable until you are used to it. Look at the history of the horse – is it flighty, can it handle traffic noise, how old is it, does it have scars or uneven hoof wear which could indicate lameness? There are numerous things to look at, so if you can,have a knowledgeable and experienced person available to help you choose, there is a much better chance of a happy horse- rider relationship.

Once you have the horse or pony, the first, and most obvious concern, is where to keep your new pet. Horses require a lot of grazing, fresh water and room for exercise. Alternatively you can stable a horse just like you would send a dog to a kennel for a holiday. It depends on where you live and what your budget is like as to which is the most suitable option. When I got Angel, I spent months trying to find grazing for her, all to no avail. The former owners kindly let me keep her on at their farm, but most people selling or giving away a horse will not want to do this. Prepare yourself for a lot of telephone time and legwork checking out any vacant paddocks around your area. Look for a paddock that is well fenced, has a working water trough or natural flowing water, and ideally some form of shelter from weather extremes. This could be as simple as a shelterbelt or hedge. Also take note of any poisonous plants such as hemlock, buttercup, oak or foxglove, and any debris like tin cans, broken glass or hidden branches. These can all harm your horse.

Now that your horse has a place to stay, you will be wondering what to feed him. A grazing horse has fewer needs than a stabled horse, but may still require extra feed such as hay and oats during winter, and a salt lick, especially during summer. What you feed your horse depends on how much work they are doing, what temperament they have, and their condition, therefore professional advice should be obtained. A stabled horse relies on what you feed it so it will need a larger supply of hay, grains and dry pellets. An apple or carrot is good for your horse too, whether stabled or grazing. When feeding a carrot make sure to cut it lengthwise as small circular pieces can choke them. Remember the water, fresh and plenty of it as a horse can drink up to 55 litres per day.

Now housed and fed the health of your horse is the next priority to ensure their happiness and your enjoyment. To this end your horse will need to be regularly groomed, wormed and be seen by a farrier.

Grooming:
A grazed horse requires less grooming than a stabled horse because the natural oils in the coat help protect them from the weather. The most basic grooming required is to pick out their hooves to remove stones, which can cause bruising or lameness, and to remove mud and manure; a brush down with a curry comb to remove mud; and combing the mane and tail to remove knots and foreign matter. To brush a horse, use very firm strokes that won’t tickle him. Horses have ticklish spots just like our feet. If the horse starts twitching or becomes restless as a particular area is groomed that might signal a ticklish spot, and could result in a ‘pay-back’ nip from the horse.

To pick out the hooves, stand beside your horse and run your hand down the back of their leg. Most horses will raise the leg for you. Hold the hoof firmly and pick it out from the heel to the toe, avoiding the soft frog area (triangular middle piece). There is much more to grooming, but starting with these basics will ensure a happy comfortable horse. It will also provide you confidence in working around your horse. As you gain assurance and knowledge you can move onto other areas.

Worming:
It is essential that this be done regularly, every six to eight weeks. Horses can ingest worms through the grass and hay they eat, so cleaning up manure in the paddock helps stop the spread of worm eggs and other parasites. Your vet should be consulted for the size of the dosage and the frequency as it will vary according to the gender, age and state (e.g. pregnancy) of the horse.

Farrier (Blacksmith):
Your horse will need to be seen by a farrier every six to eight weeks to have their hooves trimmed. If the horse is wearing shoes then it may need loose or worn shoes to be fixed or replaced. Lack of regular attention on the hooves can lead to lameness, potentially resulting in permanent injury. Their hooves are just like human fingernails -growing rapidly and prone to chip, break, crack or split. If the horse is ridden frequently and on hard surfaces, shoes are required so that the hooves do not wear down too quickly.

After all of the above, only the primary needs of your horse have been attended to. There is much more, but as with my experience, it can be learned as you go along. There is one aspect that I haven’t discussed and that is the exercising, or riding, of your horse.

Some horses may come with their own gear or a local horse-owner may have some spare gear you could borrow, lease, or buy. The very minimum you will need is a lead-rope and halter so that you can catch and tie up your horse. For riding, starter saddle kits are available at a very reasonable price but will invariably not last as long as a more expensive set. Talking to your local saddler will help you unravel the somewhat confusing needs of saddle size and style, girth size, leather type and care. An essential item that you will need to invest in is a good riding helmet. I advise to get brand new over second hand so that you can guarantee its safety has not been compromised. A lunge rope and whip for non-riding exercise is good for your horse too. I use a cheap towrope purchased from the local service station as a lunge rope, so do look for alternatives to the expensive custom-made items. A lunge whip is not terribly expensive at the saddlers.

Horse care is a satisfying aspect of owning a horse. I hope that you can share in the enjoyment of horse ownership and the creation of a bond between horse and rider that is formed as you care for your dream.

Belinda Osgood is a full-time writer working from her home in a small rural township in the South Island of New Zealand. Passions include her pets, craft and rock-hounding. This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

Author: Belinda Osgood
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Bumper guardian

There is a dangerous problem that horse owners should be very aware of. It’s when a horse stands up on his back legs. It’s called “rearing.” This problem can be quite dangerous and cause severe injuries to the rider and/or horse.

Rearing is perhaps a horse’s most effective defense against the rider. It is dangerous in that the horse can fall over backward onto its rider. Because of a horse’s enormous weight this can cripple and even kill the rider. Thus, it is good to know why, if possible, a horse rears. But even more importantly, how to stop it.

If your horse ever does rear with you on him, there isn’t much you can do. If he rears suddenly, he could lose his balance and fall or he could rear so explosively that he can throw himself back to the ground with the rider under him. If you’re on him while this is happening and you use the reins to pull on to keep from falling, you’re likely to pull the horse over.

Although it’s not one hundred percent infallible, the best way to protect yourself when a horse rears with you is to lean forward immediately and put your hands forward so you have loose reins. If you have to, you could even put your arms around his neck, let go of the reins and slide off. For my money, there aren’t any other safer ways to deal with a horse if he suddenly rears.

Why do horses rear? There are several reasons why. Here are some examples.

I’ve read where a rider was on an obedient horse while trail riding. They came upon cows and it scared the horse because the horse was not used to cows. The rider tried to get the horse to go toward the cows to get it to learn that cows are not spooky. The horse obeyed and went forward but finally became so frightened that it reared up, lost balance, and fell on its rider. The rider suffered numerous broken bones.

The rider later understood the horse felt trapped. The horse obediently went forward even though it was frightened. As it got closer, fear overpowered the horse and it had nowhere to go but up.

Some horses rear because as colts they were too young to be ridden. Another reason rearing happens is because training may confuse the horse. The horse may be asked to do too much at one time and not know what to do.

Sometimes a horse will rear if it is forced to yield to the bit. Other horses may rear if you try to get them to put out more energy than they can. On the opposite end, some horses may rear because they want to go and you don’t let them.

So how do you stop a horse from rearing?

First, let’s take a look at the anatomy of a horse while it rears. A horse cannot rear while running. A horse must stop (or be barely moving) to be able to rear. If a rider has had enough experience on a horse he can feel when the horse gets light in the front. In a way, it would be a bit like sitting in the middle of a teeter-totter where you can feel one side getting light.

So, if a horse has to stop to rear up then it makes sense to keep the horse moving so it cannot rear up. Thus, if you feel your horse getting light in the front then you move him forward and do it with meaning. Not just a patient “cluck” from your mouth. Do it like you mean it. And it’s also important he has a place to go forward – don’t have him blocked in by anything.

If your horse rears up and you weren’t ready for it then lean forward and give your horse loose reins. As soon as your horse’s feet are almost back to the ground then make your horse go forward. Let the horse know, with no doubt whatsoever, to go forward. Boot the horse “hard” into going forward. When your horse has gone forward a little ways then double him and drive him forward out of the double. Then double him the other way and drive him forward from it also. Then bring your horse to a stop.

What does it mean to “double” your horse? Essentially, you will pull his head back one way towards his hind quarters. The moment he is committed to the turn then boot him forward. This impresses upon your horses mind that you can control him.

Other so-called “schools of thought” to stop rearing are to hit a horse over the head with a two-by-four when he rears up. I’ve even read where people break beer bottles over the horse’s head. Some people use the handle end of a riding crop. Not only are these inhumane ways to stop rearing, they are rarely, if ever, effective. They don’t teach a horse anything except to fear the rider. Hitting a horse over the head when you are trying to build a trust relationship will destroy all you’ve worked for.

As is almost always the case, the best way to get a horse to do what you want is to use psychology of the horse. Get him to move and you can accomplish miracles.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery’s horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

Author: Andy Curry
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Mobile device news

It is often the little things that make a big difference when it comes to horse health care.

Have you ever noticed how some horses who have been doing poorly start to thrive when one or two little things are tweaked in their management program? Horses are relatively simple creatures and their needs are not complicated. The devil, as they say, is in the details when it comes to horse health care.

7 Little Things That Matter a Lot in Horse Health Care

As a zen cowgirl who has seen a lot of horses come and go, both performance horses and backyard pleasure horses, I’ve classified 7 areas of “little things that make a big difference” when it comes to horse health care. Take a gander and see if you agree with me.

#1 – Basic Nutrition

Horses are phenomenal creatures in that a little nutrition goes a very long way. Horses are accustomed to eating lots of food that is high in fiber and low in nutrients, so when you add just a small quantity of power-packed nutrition to their diet, the results are pretty astounding. Don’t you think it’s amazing that you can change the health of a 1,200 pound creature by just adding 1 liquid ounce of nutritional supplements to your horse’s feed?

I feed an ounce of my special horse goo, which I mix up on my kitchen table, to each of my 4 horses and the results are pretty amazing. The goo, which includes XanGo’s mangosteen juice plus Simplexity Health’s Essentials, is a wonderful maintenance tonic that keeps my horses healthy, happy, and symptom-free. The mangosteen juice is a wonderful antioxidant and source of trace minerals, while the Essentials have probiotics, enzymes, and blue-green algae. Together the combo significantly contributes to my horses’ well-being, even in tiny doses.

#2 – Plenty of Long-Stem Chewable Food

To stay healthy horses need to chew on something pretty much all day and all night. To keep both mind and body happy, horses need plenty of long-stem chewable material, like hay. They also need to be walking while they eat, as this helps their digestion and keeps them active. Since hay doesn’t meet all of a horse’s nutritional needs, I view it as entertainment. Chewing on hay all the time keeps a horse occupied and out of trouble. It is tempting to feed soaked beet pulp pellets and a Senior feed instead of hay when hay is in short supply, but this kind of diet doesn’t offer the long-stem feeds that horses need to stay healthy. If you must feed beet pulp, choose the shreds over the pellets because the shred are longer-stemmed than the pellets, which are chopped up.

One thing that works very well for horses not on a giant pasture is Jaime Jackson’s Paddock Paradise concept, which keeps horses walking and eating all day long. Just Google Paddock Paradise to get the scoop.

#3 – Basic Body Maintenance

Basic body maintenance is an essential part of good horse health care, but doesn’t need to be complicated or cost a lot. If you horse has its nutritional needs met and is kept out of trouble by having plenty to chew on, veterinary care boils down to hoof care, dental care, regular de-worming, possible vaccinations, and any bodywork that might be needed.

Depending on how much hands-on work you want to do, you can handle most of the hoof care, de-worming, vaccinations, and body work yourself. I wouldn’t recommend taking on the dental care. I do everything but the dental care for my horses. It is possible to learn bodywork (massage, acupressure, Equine Touch) from books or workshops. The same goes for hoof care, especially if you keep your horses barefoot. If you don’t want to handle these chores yourself, scheduling one visit per year with your veterinarian should take care of dental work and vaccinations. Then add in visits from the farrier every 6-8 weeks and body work as needed, and you’re good to go. Just keep it simple.

#4 – Space to Roam

Wild horses travel up to 25 miles per day in search of food and water. Horses are meant to be on the move, all the time, so if at all possible give your horse plenty of room to run. If you keep your horse in a stall, schedule as much turnout as possible. If you have a choice between keeping your horse in a run or a stall, choose a run. It always amazes me that horse people pay more for a smaller space (stall) than they do for a larger space (a run) or for pasture care. A run or pasture ends up being cheaper boarding options than a stall, not to mention healthier for your horse. If you have limited room or no pasture for grazing, consider the Pasture Paradise concept (Google it) to make the most out of a small space and keep your horse moving.

#5 – Match Your Horse’s Job to His Personality

Every horse is a particular personality type, just as people have personality types. Each type wants to be loved in a different way. Veterinarian Dr. Madalyn Ward has developed a horse personality typing system that helps you determine your horse’s personality type, and understand how best to manage your horse. Check out the Horse Harmony Test.

More importantly, once you’ve figured out your horse’s type, see if your horse’s job, management, diet, and so forth match his personality type (you can get all the details in her book, Horse Harmony). Tweaking your horse’s management program so that it fits his personality can go a long way to keeping your horse healthy and happy.

#6 – Other Horses to Play With

Horses are herd animals, which means they are not meant to live alone. Horses feel safe and secure when in a herd. To keep your horse happy, he needs to at least be able to see and hear other horses. Better still would be if your horse could interact with other horses in a herd situation. Of course, your job is to ensure that the herd is composed of suitable companions for your horses so that your horse emerges from a play session injury-free and happily satisfied. If you keep your horse where he cannot see or hear other horses, consider bringing in some kind of companion, even if it’s not another horses. Horses often get along with donkeys, mules, goats, or even llamas.

#7 – Time Off to Be a Horse

This is especially true for performance horses who are campaigned heavily all year long. Most horses are more than willing to do their jobs, but they need down-time to just be horses. If you have a performance horse on the circuit, consider turning him out to pasture for a month or two during the winter. While he may lose some of his physical condition, his mental condition will be restored, and he will work all the better for you. This is a case of “less is more,” where slightly less work equals more effective showing later in the season.

Horse Health Care – Why the Little Things Matter

These little “tweaks” to your horse’s management program can matter a lot because at the end of the day, a horse is a horse, not a motorcycle. Horses are living, breathing creatures who have adapted remarkably well to domestication, but nevertheless have some basic needs that date back to their ancestral roots. You’ll be amazed how much happier a horse can be when his basic physiological and psychological needs are met. For instance, many a wood-chewing horse has been restored to normalcy by simply having constant access to long-stemmed feed like hay or beet pulp shreds. Putting a round-bale into your horse’s pen is a simple “tweak” that can produce big results (and equal less carpentry work for you)!

Got any other great “tweaks”? Leave a comment so everyone else can benefit!

Stephanie Yeh is a zen cowgirl obsessed about horses, healing, natural remedies, herbs, magic, MLM, and more. Check out natural horse care tips, ways to fund your horse obsession, natural health products, and more on her blog (http://zencowgirl.blogspot.com). You can get the recipe for the “Horse Goo” on the same website. Order XanGo mangosteen products on her website (http://www.mangosteengood.com).

Author: Stephanie H. Yeh
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: US Dollar credit card