Archive for the ‘Fish’ Category
Removal Of Fish From Your Aquarium
Removing dead fish is a very simple process actually, but you have to be sure the fish is really dead. Dead fish will temporarily sink to the bottom of the aquarium, but then soon enough, they will begin floating in the tank in the infamous belly-up position. This is the time when the fish will begin releasing toxins into the water. When you see a fish in this manner, remove it as soon as possible. It is not a good idea, however, to actually handle dead fish. You must use small nets or gloves to remove the fish from your tank.
However, it is not just dead fish that you will need to remove from your tank. Fish that are obviously sick must be immediately quarantined, which you can do by putting them into a fishbowl so that they do not spread their disease to the other fish in the tank. You can understand if fish are sick by looking at their movement in the water. If the fish are sluggish in the way they move (you must compare with how they move normally), or if they are spending a lot of time behind the rocks or plants in the aquarium, or simply lying lethargically on the aquarium bed, then something is wrong with them. The eyes of the fish could also be indicators of disease. If there is anything different with the eye, first remove the fish from the aquarium, and then get it checked by a qualified person.
But the most difficult thing is to remove a live and healthy fish from the tank. There are many reasons why you would want to remove a live fish. The fish might have outgrown the capacity of the tank, or the tank might be getting crowded, or simply the fish might be a danger to other fish due to its violent nature. Betta fish are notorious for attacking other fish in the tanks. Whatever the reason may be, removing live healthy fish from the tank is always a challenge.
There are some obvious problems. Live fish will squirm and wriggle around a lot in protest when you try to remove them. Some fish, like the surgeonfish, will also harm you if you try to touch them. Then there are toxic fish that you have to be worried about. Also, when you try to remove a live fish, there will be a lot of thrashing and flailing about, due to which the entire setup of your aquarium tank could be disturbed.
Your best bet to take out a live fish from your tank would be to use a line, hook and bait, just like you do when you go fishing. But you will have to use a blunt hook so as not to harm the fish. Tie up a morsel of the fish’s favorite food on the hook and dangle it in the tank keeping the line tight. The fish will take the bait, and then you can transfer it to another tank.
Another way to do this effectively is to confuse the fish. Most fish are startled when there are sudden changes in light, because deep under the water in their natural habitat, there are never any quick light changes. Anyways, you can keep your tank in darkness for several hours and then suddenly put all the lights on in the room. Taking advantage of the confusion of the fish, you can manually take them up, using protective gloves. An alternative to this is to come up to the tank in the middle of the night and then to shine a torch suddenly at them.
Putting fish into a tank is many times easier than removing them, especially if you want to retain fish that are still alive. You will need to be patient and careful so that you accomplish the task without harming the fish in question and the other inhabitants of the tank.
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Author: Richard Gilliland
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The Proper Aquarium Fish Food Keeps Your Fish Healthy
If you are thinking about setting up a tropical fish tank in your home so that you can enjoy the relaxing beauty of fish, it is a good idea to learn about the different factors that go into great aquariums. One of the essentials to any good tropical fish aquarium is the aquarium fish food that you choose, in order to help your fish thrive.
Making a choice about the right aquarium fish food is a basic and key element to ensuring that your fish stay happy and healthy. There isn’t one fish food that is right for all kinds of fish, so you will need to invest some time and effort into becoming informed and educated about the best choices for the selection of fish you have in your tropical fish tank.
Different species of fish are naturally born to need different kinds of food. For this reason, there is a wide variety of aquarium fish food available. Pre-packaged and prepared fish foods come in different styles as well as the different elements of the food. There is flake food, pellet food, staked food, frozen dead food and also live food choices.
Some of the fish species have unique and specific food requirements when it comes to their dietary needs. Other types of fish have a great deal of variety in the type of aquarium fish food they can ingest and still be healthy and thrive. But, because of these differences, it is important to you, the fish keeper, to know what your specific fish varieties need so that you can supply the correct food.
It is also a good idea to complete some research about the kind of food a fish needs before deciding to buy it and adding it to your tropical fish tank community. Maintaining a collection of fish that have similar dietary needs will make it much easier for you to supply your fish with what they need. It also assures that one type of fish is not going to end up eating the wrong kind of food, when you are trying to feed a different tropical fish species in the same tank.
One of the things you will need to learn about your fish, is whether or not they are herbivores, carnivores or omnivores. If you have ended up with a mixture of different kinds of fish, each requiring a different type of aquarium fish food, then you will need to have the food for each type on hand.
Also, take the time to notice which part of the tank your fish gravitate toward when they are feeding. You will discover that some of them are top feeders that linger at or near the surface of the tank water, while others are clearly bottom feeders. This is also important to know in selecting the right tropical fish food. If you have bottom feeders, you need to be sure that you have selected fish food that will sink to the bottom of the tank rather quickly.
Also, there are some fish that will only eat during the day, while others will only eat in the dark. If you know that you have fish that only feed at night, be sure you turn out the lights in the room when they are being fed, allowing them to eat their aquarium fish food naturally.
There have been many instances of night-feeding fish starving, even with adequate aquarium fish food in the water for them. This has happened because the aquarist made the mistake of leaving the overhead light of the tropical aquarium on through the night.
Mike LaVallee is the webmaster of Tropical Aquarium Care a website about Tropical Aquariums and Tropical Fish Care Here you will find articles, advice and resources on many tropical aquarium topics.
Author: Mike LaVallee
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Fish Feeding in an Aquarium
Food is what fish eat in an aquarium. A sound knowledge of good feeding is the key point for a perfect aquarium. Most of the fish activities are dependent upon the type and quantity of the food with which fish is fed. Until you know all the types of fish food you can’t judge which type does your fish kind need? Should there be some variations in the food? These are some critical questions which need to be answered and communicated for having a perfect fish tank right at your home. Let’s discuss them one by one.
Why proper diet is essential for fish?
Feeding has always been the most important thing with fish keeping. Feeding a balanced diet is very crucial. And the diet of course should be the one which suits the nature of the fish in your tank. If you feed your fish with the best desired food and in the prescribed quantity, you see that your fish has developed a great immune system. It is no more prone to diseases. It is growing at its best rather and breeding at the peak. It has brighter colors and has increased his beautiful appearance. A basic nature with fish is all its kinds have different diet requirements and nature of food. It becomes the duty of the fish keeper to search for the best eating habits of the fish that he has proposed for his aquarium. When he is done with that he should have to be more consistent and regular then. He should follow the rules of timing and quality also. This all goes into the answer of “why”.
What is the best food for my fish?
Two things are worth notice when it comes to choose the food type. The first thing is to know the eating nature of your fish and the second one is to know at what heights the fish finds food. If you are good in these two areas, believe me you are never going to face any problem while choosing food type for any fish made by god. Some fish are herbivores. They only eat plants related food. These types of fish are good in number. Second type of fish is the carnivore fish. It only feeds on meat. It might hunt other fish in the tank or you yourself feed it with meat. Although this type of fish is outnumbered in the oceans and seas but there are few people who propose them for their tanks. The last one is omnivorous fish. This sort of fish feeds on both plants and meat. Majority of fish in sea and the fish kept in tanks fall in this kind. One has be very cautious regarding the type of fish while feeding. Feed the fish as per its requirements and leave the fish to live happy.
You might have observed different fish at various aquariums. For ones amaze different type of fish feed themselves on only some specific depths under water. it means, some fish find their food on the top of the water level, some find it a bit deeper almost in the mid of the total water and some feel good when they are fed on the bottom of the water. One can’t help with the nature and has to obey the rules. Thus when you are out for fish feeding, keep the height matters in mind.
What food should the fish be offered?
Just like man, fish, being a living creature, needs good balance diet. His food must contain proper quantities of fats, vitamins, carbohydrates and most importantly minerals.
A good variety of food types is available to choose from, for feeding your fish in the tank. Again it goes with the type of fish himself which determines the type of food. If the fish is herbivore, more fiber food like algae and vegetables will be good. These kinds of fish just love to eat spinach, lettuce, nettles, zucchini, carrots, peas and maize.
Before feeding them with these food types just make sure that they are pre- boiled and are not too hard and are breakable and digestible by the fish. These foods are rich in vitamins, minerals and trace elements. Spirulina being an easy assailable vegetable is also recommended by most of the fish hobbyists.
Dry foods
Dry foods are prepared food and are of high quality designed for the provision of a balance diet of the fish and for the supply of extra, urgent proteins as an addition. According to the nature of fish, one can choose dry food for his fish from granules, grains, flakes, pills and wafers. It is helpful for the keeper also because it does not require any preparation expenses and is easy to store. There is almost no risk for fish to get diseased when fed with dry foods.
This was all about the types of food available for your fish. A good advice in the end is keep a variation in the fish diet- fish will grow great.
Chintamani Abhyankar is a goldfish enthusiast and has been raising and breeding goldfish for many years. He is an expert on their care and an advocate for raising healthy goldfish the natural way. His famous digital book, “Secrets on Keeping Beautiful Goldfish”, offers simple, easy to follow instruction for raising healthy, long-living goldfish. Visit his website http://www.goldfishcaretips.com to learn more about expertly raising your goldfish and to receive your FREE copy of his special report, “Fish-Keeping Hobby Secrets Revealed”.
Author: Chintamani Abhyankar
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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6 Most Commonly Seen Freshwater Fish Diseases
Fish diseases are some of the least well understood illness among pets. Cats and dogs are mammals and therefore there are similarities between human treatment and animal treatment.
But fishes are a whole different class of animals and most pet fishes aren’t taken to a vet when they fall ill. There is a lack of medical records with regard to fish diseases. Commercial fishes, because of their commercial value, are given medical and preventive treatment to cure them of their illness. But unfortunately the medical cases and forms of treatment applicable to commercial fishes are usually not well suited for fish tanks and aquariums at home.
One of the biggest fears with fish diseases is the possibility of contagion. You can never be sure if the infested fish could quickly spread the disease to the rest of the tank and killing off your entire fish population.
The first thing you would want to know when you spot a diseased fish is, “what illness is it?” and the next question is “is it contagious and how can I treat it?” Here’s a list of common diseases seen among freshwater fish tanks and how you can treat it.
Ammonia Poisoning
Ammonia poisoning is not a real disease by it is so common among fish tanks and aquariums that we have listed it here. The gills of fishes become red and inflamed, and fishes are seen at gasping for air at the water surface.
Treatment is performed simply by reducing ammonia content in the water. There are plenty of products in the market that allows you a one-time reduction of ammonia level. But to solve the problem permanently, you need to invest in a better filtration system, especially a biological one. Proper cycling of your tank must be done to establish bacteria colonies for reducing ammonia or you can also solve the problem by reducing the number of fishes in your tank.
Dropsy
Dropsy is caused by an internal bacterial infection. Usually the fish’s chance of survive is very small by the time the disease is spotted. The fish becomes bloated and its scales are raised off the body.
Dropsy is not highly contagious, so you don’t have to worry about the disease spreading, but still you should isolate the infected fish as a form of safeguard. There are medications which can cure the fish, but it may not be effective since the fish may already be too weak by the time the diagnosis is made.
Fin Rot
As the name suggests, Fin Rot is typified by the rotting of the fish’s fins. The fish tends to lie on the bottom of the tank because it is becoming difficult for the fish to swim.
The disease is not caused by specific bacteria, but is caused by stressed. Stressed fish have weakened immune systems and that allows opportunistic bacteria to invade, causing fin rot. Since the stress is likely to be an environmental factor, other fishes are likely to be affected as well.
You need to find out what is the cause of the stress and remove it. The fishes can be treated easily using antibiotics available from local fish stores.
Fish Fungus
Fish Fungus is also known as cotton wool because the symptoms look cotton wool growths on the body, mouth and fins of the fishes.
It is not actually a fungus, but like Fin Rot, it is a result of invasion by opportunistic bacteria. This is likely due to low water quality resulting in stress for the fishes. Again, remove the source of the stress and treat your fishes with antibiotics to cure the bacteria infection. Fish Fungus is also contagious, so it’s best to isolate the affect fish in a different tank.
Nitrite/Nitrate Poisoning
Nitrate poisoning is not a disease, but a problem with the water quality. But the symptoms of sluggish fish and gills that appear brown in color lead most people to mistake it for a disease.
Nitrate poisoning usually follows elevated ammonia levels in the water. The bacteria colonies break down the ammonia and convert them to nitrates. While nitrates are less toxic than ammonia, they are still poisonous at high levels. Nitrates can also result in algae blooms that result in yet more problems for your fish tank.
You can remove nitrates by adding sodium chloride (common salt) into the water. A low concentrations, they are harmless to the salt and can lower nitrate levels. Another way to remove nitrate is by rearing water plants in your tank. Plants take in nitrates as part of the nutrients they require for growth.
Ichthyophtirius
Ichthyophtirius is also known as the White Spot Disease. Fish owners will be very familiar with this one. Fishes affected with the disease appears to have white spots on the skin especially around the fins.
White spot is caused by poor water quality, but it is also common with new fishes that have been introduced into the tank. New fishes experience high levels of stress which weakens their immunity. Like all the other disease, removing the stress factor and treating with antibiotics will restore your fishes to health. It is very much more contagious, so you have to react quickly to isolate the infect fish and to perform the treatment.
Most of these common diseases can be treated, but prevention is always better than cure. You probably might have noticed that most of these diseases are a result of stress and poor water quality. To prevent your fishes from falling sick in the first place, you should take extra care in these areas.
And in the unfortunate case where you fishes do fall sick, this list will hopefully help you take the right steps towards restoring your fish tanks to health.
Eric loves pets, cats, dogs, and now fishes. He has been finding out more about his latest interest, fish tanks aquariums. He also has a new idea of using a baby backpack carrier for carrying small pets around on your shopping trips.
Author: Eric Tai
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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How to Add New Fish to Your Saltwater Aquarium – 5 Most Common Mistakes and What to Do About It
Nothing is more fun to the owner of a saltwater aquarium than picking out a new fish (or several) for their saltwater aquarium and then getting it home to add it to their tank. It is so fun and exciting and is probably one of the most enjoyable aspects of the saltwater aquarium hobby. But unfortunately, nothing is more frustrating than going through the whole process of getting that new fish home and adding to the tank, only to have it die within a week, or worse, a disease outbreak occurs and all your fish get sick. The good news, is that most of the time, these losses are avoidable. And I am about to show you how.
Mistake #1 – Adding one fish at a time - When adding new fish to your saltwater aquarium, it is often problematic to add just one fish at a time. The reason for this is that the new fish is ganged up on by the resident fish, which is often too much aggression for the new fish to handle. And if you are adding just one fish, then all that aggression is focused on one fish. Sometimes it is the new fish that is being aggressive, but not usually. Another problem with only adding one fish at a time, particularly to a new tank, is that there are not that many fish in the tank, so they take much longer to learn acclimate to their new diet of flakes, pellets, frozen foods, etc.. When you only have a couple of fish in a new tank, they are often stressed out and anxious because they do not have the safety in numbers benefit of being in a school.
Solution: Try to avoid adding just one fish at a time. Instead, add new fish in groups. Make sure you do not go overboard with too many fish, but they will definitely do better when added in groups. Social feeding response improves the speed at which new fish get used to eating the foods you offer. And, by adding fish in groups it dilutes any aggression from resident fish (dilutes aggression); often adding just one or two fish can result in the resident fish picking on them and stressing them out and even injuring or killing them
Mistake #2 – Not acclimating new fish properly, or not acclimating them at all - I am often surprised at how many different and wrong ways I have heard on how fish are added to a tank. Some people get home from the store with a new fish and in they go. Others will float the fish in the bag, in the tank, to match temperature, but do nothing to match salinity or pH. Depending on where your new fish is coming from, the acclimation method used may vary slightly, but the same basics will always apply.
Solution: Follow a proven and thorough acclimation method
- turn off lights (make room dark); this minimizes stress on the fish being acclimated and it also lessens the likelihood of aggression from resident fish
- prepare the acclimation bucket with tank water that has then been adjusted to match the temperature, salinity and pH of the water in the bag (that the fish was transported in) – and then put the fish into the acclimation bucket
- use an air stone in the acclimation bucket or container to keep oxygen level up
- using flexible airline tubing, start a siphon from the tank to the acclimation bucket, and continue until pH, temperature and salinity in the acclimation bucket match that of the display aquarium
Mistake #3 – Using a net to move the fish - Whenever possible avoid using a net to move the fish. And if you do need to use a net, then use one with the finest mesh possible, so that it minimizes abrasion and harm to the fish. Do not get me wrong – sometimes you just have to use a net to catch a fish out of a tank. But when it comes time to move the fish from the bag into the acclimation bucket or from the acclimation bucket into the tank, there really is no need for a net.
Solution: When moving a fish, avoid using a net, and instead use your hands, a plastic bag or small container.
Mistake #4 – Putting bag water into your aquarium - Most new fish come in a plastic bag, which contains the water from the fish store or the online retailer or wholesaler, or from your friends tank. So why is it really bad to put that bag water into your tank? The reason is threefold:
- the bag water is often polluted and will likely be high in nitrogen (ammonia, nitrites, or nitrates);
- the tank the fish came from at the fish store or wholesaler may have copper in it, which is used to keep parasites and disease at bay. This copper, if added to your reef tank, would kill your invertebrates (corals, snails, hermit crabs, starfish, etc.);
- the system the fish came from may have parasites or disease, which, if added to your tank, may cause a disease outbreak;
Solution: Never put the bag water, that the fish came in, into your aquarium.
Mistake #5 – Taking too long to get your new fish conditioned to feeding – Too often a new fish will get added to a tank with existing fish, and the feeding routine is not adjusted to account for the new fish. The same old feeding routine mistakenly persists. The problem with this is that, between the time they are collected and the time they are put into your tank, newly added fish have been through a lot of stress. And when they are stressed, most fish do not eat well or they do not eat enough. This is a problem, because without proper nutrition, the stress I mentioned can easily result in a disease outbreak. So it is kind of a sprint or rush to get them eating regularly as quickly as possible.
Solution: Get your new fish eating as quickly as possible by offering them small amounts of food several times a day for the first two weeks. The frequency of feeding is key here. At first, offer whatever they will eat. In the beginning, do not worry about nutritional value. The goal is to just get them eating. One of my favorite food items that almost all fish seem to eat readily, and that stimulates to the social feeding response, is called “Cyclopeeze” (frozen copepods). Once they are eating regularly, you can then add more food items with higher nutritional value. Also, be careful to not overfeed. Make sure there is not any uneaten food on the bottom. This can be a bit tricky when you consider the fact that often newly added fish will not eat right away and I am telling you to feed as often as 3-5 times a day.
And now, I’d like to invite you to get free instant access to our newsletter, with how-to videos, interviews with other experts, and where we provide behind the scenes secrets, tips, and advice on everything to do with keeping saltwater aquariums. Click here for instant access.
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Author: Warren Gibbons
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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A Small Aquarium Setup Guide – How to Select Fish For a Small Fish Tank
Keeping a fish tank can be a fun and rewarding hobby. There are many varieties of tanks, equipment and most importantly, tropical fish. But how do you choose the right fish for your setup. The answer depends in large part on the size of your aquarium.
Aquarium Size
When shopping for your fish tank, you’ll notice that tank sizes are given in gallons (sometimes litres in Europe and other metric system countries). Typically, a tank under 20 gallons is considered a small fish tank. There are many aquarium systems in the 5 to 20 gallon range and choices should be made based on your particular setup.
It is often easier for the new fish owner to look for an aquarium system – a set that includes all the necessary equipment – than to select individual accessories. High quality fish tank systems can be found by searching for manufacturers like Marineland, BiOrb & BiUbe and Oceanic.
Fish for Small Tanks
Once you’ve chosen your fish tank setup, remember to properly condition your water by cycling it with one of the various products on the market today that help your aquarium develop the necessary bacteria. If you are unsure about water cycling, you’ll want to do some research on the Nitrogen Cycle prior to purchasing any tropical fish.
After preparing your water, you’re ready for your first fish. Assuming you’ve chosen a smaller aquarium setup, there are a few types of fish that are better for fish tanks smaller than 20 gallons. We’ll take a look at some recommendations that will give your tank the best chance for success below.
Bettas
There are a lot of myths about Bettas. Sometimes referred to as Siamese Fighting Fish as a result of the males propensity to fight other males, you’ll often see these fish in extremely small bowls in your local pet store. While the fish do quite well in smaller setups, anything under three gallons is not recommended.
Although Bettas can be a great first fish for a small aquarium, there are two important points to keep in mind when keeping Bettas. First, never keep two males in the same fish tank without the use of a plastic tank side box or some other means of keeping them apart. Males will fight, and the purpose of your tank should not be to pit fish against each other. The second important point is to make sure the water temperature is warm enough for your Bettas. Bettas originate from Southeast Asia where the river water tends to be extremely warm. Water temperature specifications can be found below.
Minimum tank size: 3 gallons
Water Temp: 75 – 86 F (24 – 30 C)
Aquarium Level: Top
Size: Approximately 3 inches
Care Level: Beginner to Intermediate
pH: 6.8 – 7.4
Food: Flakes, Frozen and Live
Dwarf/Honey Gouramis
Dwarf and Honey Gouramis earn their names as a result of their small adult size and honey color respectively. Adults reach a maximum size of about 2 inches. Both types of Gouramis are great fish for a first time owner as they are peaceful, community fish. As such, they should not be kept in a fish tank with other more aggressive fish. They prefer thick vegetation. Dwarf and Honey Gouramis originate from India and Bangladesh and so prefer warm water.
Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
Water Temp: 72 – 82 F (22 – 28 C)
Aquarium Level: Mid – top
Size: Approximately 2 inches
Care Level: Beginner to Intermediate
pH: 6.0 – 7.5
Food: Omnivorous, will also eat algae
Harlequin/Red Rasbora
The Harlequin is also known as the Red Rasbora and is a very popular freshwater fish. Harlequins prefer thickly vegetated tanks, with dark substrate and low lighting. Harlequins do well in a wider range of water temperatures than some of the other tropical fish listed in this article. Although the harlequin originates in Southeast Asia and as such, likes warmer waters. You’ll want to buy at least three to four harlequins at a time, as they would rather be in a school or small group.
Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
Water Temp: 73 – 82 F (23 – 28 C)
Aquarium Level: Mid – top
Size: Approximately 1.5 – 2 inches
Care Level: Beginner to Intermediate
pH: 6.0 – 7.5
Food: Omnivorous
Zebra Danio
With many types of Danios available, the Zebra Danio is one of the most active aquarium fish. Zebra Danios are colorful fish easily recognized by the bluish purple stripes running down the sides of their bodies. Zebra Danios are great community fish and very peaceful. Although Zebra Danios are considered colder water fish, if placed in an aquarium with a slightly higher temperature, the fish often adapt without a problem. They prefer slightly running waters and will typically be found at the top of the aquarium.
Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
Water Temp: 64 – 74 F (18 – 24 C)
Aquarium Level: All levels
Size: Approximately 2 inches
Care Level: Beginner
pH: 6.5 – 7.0
Food: Omnivorous
Tetras
Tetras are great fish for a smaller tank and new fish owners. Although there are many different types of tetras, they are typically peaceful and easy to care for community fish.
As mentioned, there are many varieties of tetras that are well-suited for smaller tanks. Look around at your local pet store and find the color and variety that you like best. Varieties that typically do well in smaller fish tank setups include Cardinal, Neon, Black Phantom, Black Neon and Bleeding Heart Tetras. For the purposes of this article, we’ll use the popular Cardinal Tetra for our fish facts section below.
Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
Water Temp: 73 – 81 F (23 – 27 C)
Aquarium Level: Mid – top
Size: Approximately 2 inches
Care Level: Beginner – Intermediate
pH: 4.6 – 6.2
Food: Omnivorous
With any of the above fish and a good understanding of the optimal conditions for each type, you should be ready to pick out your new pets. Many people hold the misconception that tropical fish require little care and can be maintained with little or no effort. Before you go out and buy your fish make sure you are ready for the commitment. While keeping fish is not a no maintenance hobby, it can be a low maintenance hobby. Choosing the right setup and fish will go a long way to ensuring you create a healthy environment for your fish.
For more recommendations, information and reviews of fish tanks and fish equipment, visit BiOrb Tank Reviews.
Author: Chris Saba
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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