Archive for the ‘Dogs’ Category
Greatest Dog Tips Ever (part two)
TOP TIPS FOR DOGS (part two)
21. Fussy Eating
I am told by countless owners that their dog will not eat dry food or many other types of food and that they will only eat smoked salmon/steak/or best mince etc etc. This is because we actually teach our dogs to be fussy and picky eaters by free feeding. That is leaving down food all day. The dog then comes to the realisation that it can eat at any time and does not fall into a routine. Free feeding can also have an effect on , control complex behaviour also know as “dominant behaviour” though that term is vastly overused it can give the message to a socially mobile dog that he could be a pack leader as he has access to food at any time.
To overcome this decide on how many times you will feed per day. If he is over 1 year then this will be either once or twice. Feed the food of your choice not the food of his choice “I am a firm believer in a quality all in one dry food” If you prefer the more natural diet that is fine as long as you cook the meat “Never Feed Raw” put this down for ten minutes only, if the dog has eaten it in that time fine, if not pick the food up and put it away.
When the next meal is due then only put out amount of food you would normally feed, do not double up. It may take a few days for the message to get home, but it will in the end. Remember the dog’s dim and distant ancestor is the Wolf. Which is a feast and famine eater; they sometimes go many days or even longer between kills, so your dog will not starve, instinct and survival will take over and the dog will resume eating the food you choose not the food he chooses. Many people think that it must be boring feeding them the same thing every day. But do not realise that supplementing a quality dry food with tinned or pouch food is like putting tomato sauce on Lobster Thermidor.
I am sorry to say I am not a fan of most tinned or pouched meats and in some cases these are detrimental to the dog’s behaviour. We also assume that taste is a factor. It isn’t, dogs have only 17% of our taste capacity, lets face it if they can eat there own and other animals faeces which many do, then their choice of taste and quality must be questioned.
22. Recall Problems
How often do you see dogs coming back to about three foot from their owners then skipping away again, as if it’s a game, the owners probably in a hurry get angrier and angrier and start shouting, which of course exacerbates the situation? Giving the dog even more reason not to return, as he is aware that he may get smacked.
All this is caused because the owner did not correctly lead train and stimulate the dog in the park in the first place. He/She actually taught the dog not to come back, by only putting the dog back on the lead at the end of the walk. It doesn’t take long for the dog to click on that recall and lead mean end of fun and walk.
May I suggest the owners were probably on their mobile phone at the same time? Go to any park and see the dozens of people on mobiles walking their dogs, the poor dogs have to stimulate themselves somehow, and start running off to other dogs and people for the attention that they crave.
Give your dog’s quality time and quality training. During the walk call your dog back to you at least three or four times. Place it on a lead and reward with a brief game or a real tasty titbit, and then let it off again. Your dog will then learn that coming back to you is good news and being placed on the lead does not mean the end of the walk and end of play!
Play hide and seek behind trees etc, especially important before the 16 week puppy mark, and as early as is humanly possible. . It doesn’t think your hiding it thinks you are getting lost, and will tend to keep a beady eye on you, and by hiding especially at a young age sets up the recall and the need to keep you in sight for life. You can now get their injections so the dog can be fully covered and socialised at 10 weeks rather than 12 and I would strongly recommend this for every new puppy owner The vaccine is made by Intervet and is called Nobivac D.H.P.P.I/L. So switch off the mobiles and play games, stimulate your dog and he will have no need to wander off and not want to return.
23. Kennel Cough
On top of the Antibiotics from the Vet, Benylin Dry Cough mixture, twice a day will help to relieve the irritation. Also avoid any pressure from a collar, as this will exacerbate the condition. If you must go anywhere with your dog on a lead, use a body harness. Avoid areas where there are other dogs and if visiting your vet, make it the last appointment. Leave your dog in the car and go and tell the vet staff you are outside waiting to go in, or ask to be placed in an isolation room. This will help to reduce the spread of this highly contagious disease.
24. Timidity and Fears
How many times have you seen a dog shaking or cowering and the owner sympathising and reassuring it with petting and nurturing? This may appear to be perfectly logical behaviour, but is actually giving the dog all the wrong signals and rewarding it for being timid and nervous and confirming it has a reason to be fearful, therefore the very thing you are trying to cure is reinforced by your actions. The shy and timid dog should be exposed to as many different situations as possible. Take it along with you to the shops, the bar or the pub, and everywhere you can introduce it to new sights sounds and smells.
Don’t push it into fearful situations but gently desensitise it to the things it fears praise for calmness never for fear Consistent treatment in this manner will begin to deliver the message to the dog that there is nothing to fear. Do NOT cuddle the dog, or hug it and tell it there is nothing to fear. Dogs do not understand most of the words we say — they understand our actions. If the dog gets a hug, it assumes it has done the correct thing and will continue to be fearful.
25. Tag and Identification
It may surprise everyone to know that the maximum fine for not displaying a dog identification tag in the UK is £5000. (Where did they get that figure from?) Irrespective of whether your pet is already micro chipped. The law which is the Control of Dog Order 1992 states that “Every dog while in a highway or in a place of public resort, shall wear a collar with the name and address of the owner inscribed on the collar or on a plate or badge attached thereto”. I would also recommend you put your mobile number on the disc in case you are away on holiday with the dog; the home number would be useless if your dog then goes missing. You could also add the Vets number in case you cannot be contacted and the vet can keep the dog until you can pick it up.
26. Shy Timid or Frightened Dogs
I am a firm believer that socialisation is so vitally important; it almost outweighs any other consideration including the risk of contracting disease. The fear of infections has led breeders and owners alike to make the tragic mistake of keeping their puppies isolated until they have completed their vaccinations.
By taking this stance they risk ending up with a fearful, timid dog that may become aggressive as an adult. “95% of all reported dog bites are fear related“. Owners should strike a commonsense balance: puppies, especially from birth through to 14 weeks must be exposed to a variety of people and experiences. There are many activities and places to take dogs; without endangering their lives, it is vital that you take the time to expose your new pup to as many of these as possible.
This is especially true for one’s second or third dog; it is too easy to keep the new pup in the company of the older dogs, depriving him of the opportunity to develop self-confidence of his own without relying totally on the older dog/s and their protection.
27. Herbal and Natural Treatments
I am a strong advocate of herbal medicines for dogs especially in areas of Timidity, Fear and Anxiety. The more common and easily obtainable are Dr Bach’s Rescue Remedy, (chemist or health food shop, internet) D.A.P Diffuser (internet or vets) and Skullcap and Valerian (health stores chemists internet. These can be especially helpful in situations such as separation anxiety excessive barking and firework and thunder phobias.
28. The Lead
Your lead is the most vital piece of training equipment you can own, it has multiple uses, it is also an aerial to your dog. Tighten it at the wrong time and you can send messages that could spark aggression, fear, or anxiety, use it to drag your dog around and it could damage his neck and spine, especially if it connected to a choke chain which I abhor. Used correctly it can be a godsend almost the only training aid you will ever need.
All training including sit, stay, down, recall, sit stay, wait etc should initially be trained on a lead. Unfortunately most of the leads I see are far too short to be effective and are of a material that hurts and can burn and damage your hands.
The lead should be at least 5 foot long irrespective of the size of the dog, this will help all training and lead work in the future. It should be made of something like Cushion Web which is extremely strong yet very soft, (sounds a bit like a advert for toilet paper) NOT Nylon which is harsh as can burn and damage your hands.
The problem is that most lead manufacturers haven’t a clue about dogs and what constitutes a good lead, they just produce what makes the most profit. Good quality leather leads are OK though I find them a bit hard on the hands at first. Shop around till you find what you want, don’t be fobbed off with what the industry or pet shop wants you to buy. I have my own specialised Cushion Web leads made for me; you can now buy them direct from my site, it is worth shopping around until you get exactly what you want.
29. Counter Surfing
This is where dogs are constantly picking things up either from the floor tables or kitchen worktops, at best it can be frustrating and annoying, at worst it can be fatal if they eat something that is dangerous. The quickest way and most permanent resolution to this problem is to go to your local joke shop and buy a spring loaded cap banger. This is a little metal device that when you put a cap in it and set it by putting a suitable object on top, then anyone or in this case anything picking up the food/object will set off the banger takes about three/four bangs and the dog normally decides to call it a day. The beauty of this device is most dogs are crafty and only steal when you are not in the room therefore it is the perfect solution.
30. Dogs Ages in Human Terms
If I were to stop 100 people in the street and ask them how do you calculate a dogs age human in human terms 90% would say one dog year to every seven human years the others 9% would probably say they don’t know and 15 may know the correct calculation.
This is one of many doggy old wives tales that are totally and utterly wrong. As a general rule of thumb it should be fifteen for the 1st year ten for the 2nd and then five for every year thereafter. This is only an approximation there is a chart that works on size and breed that gives it more accurately than this. If you calculated every seven years and the dog is 16 years old then the dog in human terms would be 112 using my method the dog is a more realistic 95.
I also think we are all aware that a one-year-old dog does not act like a seven-year-old child; it is more like the rebellious teenager round the back of the bike shed having a quick fag. In addition, they are far more aware of the opposite sex than a seven year old would ever be.
31. Firework Aversion
For many dog owners the run up to November 5th is a nightmare. To help alleviate the problem purchase a sounds disc from places like Sounds Scary on the web or pet shops. Do this at least a six weeks before the main firework days for instant November the 5th in the UK or the 4th of July in the States. A DAP Diffuser also can help which is a chemical copy of the pheromone the nursing mother gives out to calm her litter along with herbal calmers such as Dr Bach’s Rescue remedy. Using the pheromones and the herbal remedies and a calm base, start playing the disc very softly at first the build up of the volume should be over weeks not hours. Never try to rush this and if the dog shows concern go back a few steps. Never comfort or cuddle an anxious dog (see tip 24)
If initially the dog has just been frightened for the first time by fireworks, you should act very blasé and immediately go outside and play with toys such as balls or Frisbees, or even a training session where you can praise for actions other than the fear, this can be done whilst the noise is going on. You may therefore overcome a potential future problem immediately.
How this works is the same principal as for instance flying, the plane suddenly hits turbulence, watch everyone’s first reactions, they look to the Stewards/Stewardesses to see if they are showing anxiety. If they are calm and acting perfectly normally then our anxiety and fear also dissipates. It is worth trying this tactic when your dog has any negative experience, even though it does not appear too affected, just in case of a potential phobia later on.
32. Dry and Crusty Nose
adding a teaspoon of flax seed oil to the dog’s food daily often helps.. Dry noses and other dry skin complaints respond well to a multivitamin supplement (especially if they include vitamin B complex).
33. Fleas
If you want a natural method of flea control give the dog a clove of garlic in his food each day. You can also purchase granulated garlic from a horse tack shop at a very reasonable price. Fleas hate the taste, which come out in the dog’s skin and will soon go looking for a more tasty meal.
34. Ear Mites
if your pet has contracted ear mites, then a simple remedy is to use corn oil to suffocate them place two or three drops of corn oil into its ears (you can use an eye dropper), massage the ear gently then clean our with a cotton ball. Repeat for 3 days. Regular ear bathing with oil is recommended by vets, to avoid a build-up of wax and irritants.
35. Urinary Tract Infections
Mix 30-40ml of cranberry juice into your pet’s food. This will boost the acidity of its urine, reduce bacteria and help relieve the discomfort. To ease the pain in fact any pain you can add half a dissolved aspirin or children’s liquid analgesic to your pet’s food.
This is part two of the Greatest Dog Tips see Greatest Dog Tips Ever (part one) for the first 20 tips.
Please rate these tips at the bottom of the page and add your comments thank you
Stan Rawlinson
www.doglistener.co.uk
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.
Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly and K9 Magazine and Shooting Times. He is also the founder member of PAACT The Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers.
Author: Stan Rawlinson
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Dog Training – 8 Ways to Cut Down on Behavior Problems
You’ve performed three of the most important tasks for a dog owner: decided if you were right for a dog, determined what dog was the best for you and taught your best friend some manners. That should be about it, right? Wrong!
You have an ongoing relationship with your pet, just like you do your children or your spouse. It’s important to maintain the relationship if you want it to be fruitful. If you don’t, all of that training you’ve done so far will be for naught.
Sometimes, though, like all relationships, the one with your dog can be rocky. Even well-trained owners have dogs with behavior problems when things change. Dog have been known to act out when their owners being working more hours, go back to school, have a baby or get married. Dogs aren’t themselves when they are ill or in pain. Some dogs are just never quite right because of problems inherited from poor breeding.
Here are nine things you can do to make sure your well-behaved dog stays that way.
1. Don’t forget that you are leader of the pack. Remind yourself that your dog is genetically programmed to be part of a group and to obey the leader of his pack. If you don’t provide him consistent strong, yet fair, leadership, he will try to become the leader. If he becomes the leader by default, behavior problems will increase exponentially. Here are some tips to make sure he remembers you are his leader:
- Don’t let him pull on his leash.
- Don’t put the leash on your dog until he sits quietly.
- Don’t let him get away with bad behavior.
- Always eat before he does.
- Don’t chase or play rough games like tug-of-war with your dog.
- Don’t allow him to bite anyone.
- Always go through doorways before him.
- Try to always be calm, fair and confident when dealing with your dog.
- Don’t give him anything – attention, food, play – without him doing something for you first, like sitting on command.
- Don’t allow your dog on furniture without your permission.
- Protect your dog from other animals or people who try to harm him.
When you are a strong leader, your dog will respect you. With this respect comes an innate desire to please. He will love you and want to obey your every command!
2. Train with your dog every day. Just like with humans, any behavior you train your dog to do will be forgotten if he doesn’t practice it. Work with your dog at least 15 minutes a day on an aspect of his behavior. This is important, also, to remind your canine that you are the leader of his pack. Try to teach your dog something new every month or two. This will keep him challenged and give you both a sense of accomplishment. Most dogs were bred to do some kind of work, and if you don’t give your dog purpose, he’ll become bored and develop behavioral problems.
3. Make sure to give your dog treats and praise. Continue the technique you’ve used to train your dog. People tend to get complacent, and before you know it, Spot is hogging your bed and dragging you down the street by the leash. To make things worse, he won’t listen to your commands any more. To prevent this, make your dog perform an act of obedience to earn praise, petting or a treat.
4. Never strike or yell at your dog. Hitting or kicking your dog will have about the same effect that it would on a spouse or a child – it ruins the relationship and breaks down all the trust your pet had for you. Some owners use physical abuse to train their dogs to fight for money. Others believe, erroneously, that abuse will make them become better watch or attack dogs. Statistics show that thousands of dogs are killed or injured by people every year. No matter how frustrated you get with him, never, ever strike your pet.
Dogs don’t respond well to yelling. All it does is get your dog more stressed, which will more than likely make his behavior problems worse. Everyone loses their patience from time to time, but remember that your dog only responds to fair leadership.
5. Get your dog proper medical care. Your dog needs a checkup at the veterinarian annually to make sure he’s in top form physically and to receive yearly shots to prevent rabies and other diseases. It’s important to go to the same vet every year so he or she can monitor your pet and notice any evidence of problems. All dogs need a teeth cleaning from time to time, too, to keep them healthy. If your dog is injured or sick, he needs to get proper medical attention. Your veterinarian can also give you advice on behavior as well as diet, breeding, training, and puppy selection
6. Attend obedience training. As an absolute necessity for getting a good to a positive relationship with your dog, be sure to take him to a six-to-eight-week-long obedience class, before his first birthday if he’s a puppy, as soon as possible if he’s an adult dog. A good trainer will teach you the basics and what a good dog/owner relationship is.
If you have an adult dog, don’t worry. That old saying, “You can’t teach an old dog new tricks” is not true! A dog of any age can learn good behavior. Both you and your dog will benefit. He will learn some good behavior and to respect you, the leader of the pack. You’ll learn the subtleties of your dog’s behavior and how to act in a fair, yet dominant, manner. Obedience training is great way to teach an “only dog” how to properly socialize with other dogs and people. Whether you are alone with your dogs or in a group of people and animals, your dog will learn how to behave.
Here are some tips to help you determine what obedience class is the right one for you and your pet:
- Ask your friends, family members, vet or groomer for
recommendations.
- Be sure the trainer uses positive reinforcement and no methods that hurt or frighten the dogs.
- Choose a trainer that focuses primarily on group classes. Although it may seem like one-on-one training might be best, group classes give both you and your dog to observe other people and their pets. Your dog will also focus on your commands, not just those of the trainer. Some owners do both individual and group classes.
- Make sure there are separate classes for puppies and adult dogs. Dogs between eight and 16 weeks should be in puppy classes. You may also feel more comfortable with a trainer who offers beginning, intermediate and advanced obedience classes.
- Ask the trainer you are considering if you can watch a class. While you watch, note some of these details: Notice if the class is small enough that everyone can get some individualized attention. Watch to see if both and dogs and owners are having fun. See if the trainer provides lesson handouts. In a good class, you’ll hear plenty of praise and commands in upbeat, yet firm, tones. Does the trainer give the owners other information about health, grooming or specific breeds? You want to make sure your trainer is knowledgeable about the whole dog, not just obedience training techniques.
- Ask your trainer if he or she knows several different techniques to work with dogs. This can come in handy if your dog doesn’t always respond to the tried-and-true methods.
- Make certain that the trainer requires that dogs be vaccinated and certified healthy by their vet before enrolling in classes.
- Be sure to get a list of equipment you’ll need to bring with you to your first class.
Once you find the right trainer and obedience class, make sure both you and your dog are prepared. Be sure to bring all the required equipment. Don’t feed your dog before class – since treats are part of the reinforcement of good behavior, you want him to be willing to eat the treats, which he might not want if he has a full belly. Don’t forget to do your homework! Practice between classes is essential to reinforce your dog’s behavior.
7. Lean all you can about your dog, his breed, and canine care. You can never know too much when it comes to your dog. Learn all you can from books, television and magazines. Be sure just to take the time to browse at the pet supply store or your favorite online pet supplies merchant to see what kind of new products are on the market. A new toy from time to time is a new adventure for both you and your pet.
8. Keep your dog’s home safe and stimulating. Giving your dog a fun, secure place to live will help to prevent bad behavior and may even prolong his life. Always have a number of fun toys available, including balls, chews and squeaky toys. Be sure to play with your dog daily to give him the necessary exercise he needs, to help you bond with your pet and to just have fun!
If no one is home during the day, leave a talk radio station on. Keep your pet out of areas of your home where he might eat something toxic or injure himself. Keep your fence well maintained.
If your dog starts to have behavior problems, don’t despair! There’s nothing to say that you can’t start training him to change his behavior! With a little patience and perseverance, you will be able to eliminate most bad behavior. In the most extreme cases, you may not be able to stop the behavior, but with training your dog will show improvement.
Some problems won’t be entirely eliminated, especially if you chose a dog that doesn’t have the temperament for your lifestyle. But even some of these dogs can change if you have a good dog/dog owner relationship. Now we’ll look at some of the most common behavior problems and how to re-train your dog to behave appropriately.
Marilyn Burnham
Author: ‘Dog Owners Boot Camp’
The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don’t Want You To Know!
For More Information On Dog Training
Marilyn Burnham was the owner operator of 4 successful dog grooming stores in British Columbia, Canada for more than a decade. To spend more time with her children Marilyn made the decision to sell her business in the mid 90’s. Get a copy of her book: Dog Owners Boot Camp The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Dont Want You To Know!
Author: Marilyn Burnham
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How To Cut A Dog’s Nails Without The Blood, Sweat and Tears!
Your Dog’s Nails
How to cut a dog’s nails is one of the most frequently asked question when it comes to grooming dogs.
Knowing how to cut a dog’s nails is so important and if you’re wondering how to trim a dog’s nails – you need look no further. As usual, we’ve done all the research for you and presented you with a step by step guide on this delicate procedure.
Knowing not only how, but also when to cut a dog’s nails is so important. Your dog’s nails grow constantly and how often they need to be clipped will depend on your dog’s lifestyle. If you dog does a lot of his walking on hard surfaces, he may very well need little or no extra help in keeping his nails short as his nails will be naturally worn away through friction.
However, if like our dogs, your dog mainly stays on grass, sea sand and woodland tracks, clipping dog nails becomes an essential part of his or her grooming and it becomes important that you know how to clip dog nails.
Not knowing how to cut a dog’s nails and failure in clipping dog nails will lead to crippling pain in your dog’s paws and could lead to permanent damage and malformation.
If clipping dog nails is really not your strong point, take your dog along to your vet or groomer. They know how to cut a dog’s nails – and it is amazing how much less of a prima donna your dog will be with total strangers!
When To Start
Dogs are often reluctant to have their nails clipped, therefore, starting the process at a very young age is a good idea.
Initially, get your dog accustomed to you simply holding and stroking their paws. Then progress to applying light pressure on their paws and nails – lightly pinching their nails between your finger and thumb. Reward them for allowing this.
Then, after a lesson from your vets in how to cut a dog’s nails, lightly trim a couple of nails a day. Just trim off the tips – this lessens the chances of you cutting too deep and frightening your dog off.
Talk to your dog in a soothing voice all the time and reward him with his favorite treat and a romp straight after. He will gradually grow accustomed to this unpleasant procedure and learn to at least put up with it.
Tools You Will Need
When you’re wondering about how to cut a dogs nails, there are a variety of nail clippers and trimmers on the market. The guillotine type is my favourite tool when trimming dog nails, though a strong claw cutter may be required for the bigger breeds and basset hounds – they have incredibly large claws!
Sometimes you may want to use a small file or a dremel tool to file down any jagged edges after trimming a dog nails, but frankly, my dogs can’t wait to get away from me, so I’m happy to let them round off any rough edges in the normal course of their everyday walks.
It is also advisable to keep a styptic pen handy just in case you clip into your dog’s quick – but we’ll discuss this later.
Anatomy Of A Dog’s Nail
Knowing how to cut dog’s nails is easier when you know the anatomy of a dog’s nail.
A dog’s nail is constructed of a hard outer cover, which protects the quick which is the inner soft part containing blood vessels and tender nerve endings. In dogs with light coloured nails, the quick can often been seen as being faintly pinkish in color and is thus easy to avoid cutting into.
In the more common black nailed variety, the quick it totally invisible. Therefore, knowing exactly how to cut a dog’s nails in this case is imperative. In these cases, trimming off little nibbles instead of large slices is more advisable.
Keep checking the clipped part of your dog’s nail and look out for a dark spot in the middle of the newly clipped area – this shows the start of the quick – do not cut too far into this. Taking just tiny nibbles, you will then start to see a pale third inner circle. Stop there – or else you are likely to hurt your dog.
Also, don’t forget your dog’s dew claws. Growing on the inside of his legs and not in contact with the floor, these do not get worn away and will sometimes curl completely over causing your dog to get snagged in undergrowth, his bedding, etc. This can be very painful, so do keep those neatly trimmed too.
Best Way Of Clipping Dog Nails
The best way how to cut a dog’s nails is to have the dog lying on a raised table or other surface. Do remember to put a non-slip mat for your dog to sit or stand on so she doesn’t slip and hurt herself. Having someone strong hold your dog in their arms while you quickly clip a couple of nails is another effective way of doing this.
However, your dog may be as good as gold and let you cut their claws with no fuss at all – in which case you are a very fortunate person!
Carefully read the instructions for the nail clipping tool of your choice. For example, with the guillotine, you need to cut from the underneath of your dog’s claw upwards. Never clip downwards.
Position the tool in the right place, wait for an opportune moment when your dog stops wriggling, double check that the clipper is in the right place and squeeze firmly and smoothly – the nail will just pop off.
When wondering when and how to cut dog’s nails, little and often is the best policy. Just nibbling off the ends of each claw will be less stressful for your dog – and yourself! The point to aim for is to trim off any bit that protrudes over your dog’s pad. Thus, when he stands, your dog’s claws should not touch the ground.
The good thing is, very much like our own nails, the more you trim your dog’s nails, the more the quick will recede. Therefore, clipping dog nails doesn’t have to be done all at once – take your time.
Oooops! You’ve Cut Into The Quick!
However experienced you are in knowing how to cut a dog’s nails, accidents will happen.
Clipping into the quick will cause your dog to yelp in pain – I hate it when that happens. And, just as would happen if you cut into your quick, a fair amount of bleeding will occur. As much as you try to not let this happen – it will at some stage – so it is best that you learn to deal with it.
Please, let me reassure you that it is not half as dramatic as it looks. Keep calm, deal with the situation and give your dog a big cuddle and his favorite treat when it is all over.
If learning how to cut a dog’s nails is all a bit much for you, take your dog to a groomer (some will even come to your home) to have her nails trimmed. It doesn’t cost very much and at least your dog wont hold it against you if her nails should accidentally be cut too deep!
If bleeding does occur, you have three options -
General Feet Check-Ups
Though knowing how to cut a dog’s nails is important, just as important is checking your dog’s feet regularly.
Check her pads for thorns or broken glass. Our dogs love paddling in the sea and I also always ensure their paws are rinsed when they get home as dog skin is pretty sensitive to salt water.
I always check them when they come back from their forest walks too – I watch out for any signs of limping. Our dog, Holly in particular, being long haired, tends to bring half the woodland walk back home with her and I’ve occasionally found thorny bits buried deep within her coat.
In winter, I pay special attention to our dogs’ paws because of the salt gritting which takes place and also because they may have stepped on something they couldn’t see under the snow.
In Conclusion
It is so important to keep your dog’s nails trimmed and her feet in good condition. Walking on overly long nails is painful – can lead to broken nails, nail bed infection and huge amounts of bleeding – and can also lead to ingrown nails which break into the pads of your dogs paws.
Just a little bit of regular preventative action on your part can make life so much easier for your dog. Knowing how to cut a dog’s nails and just a little extra bit of care and attention will go a long way towards keeping your dog active and healthy for a long, long time to come.
With years of experience in breeding, training and handling dogs, Marion Herbertson is first and foremost a dog lover. Visit [http://www.advice-on-pet-care-and-pet-product-supplies-online.com/Dog-Grooming.html] – for more of her practical, sometimes humourous advice on pet care.
Author: Marion Herbertson
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