Archive for the ‘Dogs’ Category
Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do? Part 1
On a recent episode of “America’s Funniest Home Videos,” (AFV) one of the top three submissions for the $10,000 prize was a video of the aftermath of destruction a family’s pet dog had done to their home. This dog had destroyed an end table, ripped the frame off a doorway, demolished a patio door screen and frame, shredded carpeting, broken glassware, and had literally “eaten” a three foot by four foot hole in the wall – destroying sheetrock, insulation, and framing in the process. He was a one dog demolition crew! I was horrified and appalled as I watched the video and listened to the mixture of giggles and gasps from the viewing audience. It was as if the poor, unsuspecting family shrugged their shoulders and said “Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do?”
The more appropriate question, however, is “My dog, my dog, WHY do you do what you do?” The answer to that question is not a simple one. Entire books have been written concerning “bad dog behavior.” And the truth is that every dog is different, and therefore, there is no “pat answer” for every situation. However, a basic understanding of “Who dogs are, and How they behave” will lead us to some appropriate suggestions on how to handle difficult and domineering dogs. If you suffer from “Bad Dog Syndrome,” this article will help you understand who your dog is (Alpha Dog Mentality), and teach you how to “reprogram” and your misbehaving dog. Soon you’ll be saying “Good Dog, Good Dog, Oh how I love you!” You can find the follow-up article “Bad Dog, Bad Dog” Part 2, in the Feature Articles section at K-9 Outfitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises.
But before we proceed, if you suffer from “bad dog syndrome” with your family pet, make sure there isn’t an underlying medical condition. Take your dog to the vet, explain your problem, and ensure he/she is healthy, and doesn’t suffer from dental, intestinal, digestion, parasitic, or other problems. Once you find that your dog is healthy, the following information should prove helpful.
Dogs are, by nature, pack animals. Pack animal behavior is instinctive from before dogs were domesticated and lived in the wild. Every pack has a hierarchy, and every animal in the pack has duties, responsibilities, and expectations. Since your dog doesn’t live in the wild, he/she assumes you, your family, and other household pets make up the “pack.” Many times, “bad dog behavior” is a result of confusion over “Alpha Dog Status” or “Alpha Dog Mentality.” You must establish that you are the “Alpha” dog in the pack. You must also establish that other family members, to include the children, all rank higher in the pack than your dog does. There are many ways to effectively put your dog in his proper pack ranking. Here are a few suggestions, or rules, for handling domineering dogs, and establishing pack rankings:
1. When you enter the house, make sure your dog enters last, even if you must put her on a leash. This shows her where she ranks in the family “pack.”
2. Alpha dogs want the run of the entire house. Make sure certain areas of the home are out of bounds for the dog. That may include certain bedrooms, the laundry room, bathrooms, or the den. This helps the dog know you are master of the house, not him.
3. Alpha dogs occupy high traffic areas, like hallways and entryways. Don’t step over or go around the dog, nudge the dog and tell her to move out of your way, and make sure she does so. This lets her know who owns the space and who is in charge.
4. Don’t allow your dog to DEMAND your attention. Dogs usually do this by climbing on your lap, or by nudging your hand or arm. Make the dog sit, lie down, etc., and then give lavish praise and attention. Remember, you control when you give your dog attention, affection, and praise.
5. Exercise control over your dog’s possessions. Take away all her toys, then give her a command, and when she obeys, give her the toy as a treat. After she plays with it for awhile, take it away again.
6. When you come home, make your dog greet you first. Ignore him until he does. He must be submissive to you, not the other way around.
7. Establish dog eating times. In the pack, the Alpha dog always eats first, and then the other dogs eat. Make sure the family eats first, followed by the dog. If you must feed the dog first, pretend to eat something first, then feed your dog. Leave the dog’s food out for 10-15 minutes, then take it up, whether the dog is finished or not. She will learn quickly to eat when fed.
8. Always stroke (pet) your dog around the head, neck, and shoulders. These are vulnerable areas for the dog, and shows that you are superior. Be careful not to stroke your dog around the chest, because this puts him in the dominating position and undermines your authority as alpha dog.
9. Don’t allow your dog to sleep in your bed! I know that’s a tough one for some folks, but believe me, it’s best for all concerned. The best thing to do is provide the dog with her own cage, crate, or bed. Put it in your bedroom if that helps you, but do it. Dogs “Kennel” by nature. They like a safe, snug place they can call their own.
Your dog is your pet. Ultimately, all he/she really wants is your love and affection (i.e. time together). Hopefully, these ideas and suggestions, along with a better understanding of who your dog is and the role he plays in the family relationship, will soon move you from saying “Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do?” to saying, “Good Dog, Good Dog, Oh How I Love You!”
By the way, the “Destructive Dog” video did not win a prize on AFV, although I’m sure the family could have used the money for repairs. Following our guidelines would prove a lot less expensive and would make for a much more harmonious family and pet relationship.
Danny Presswood, 2006 All Rights Reserved.
Danny Presswood is a retired US Army Combat (Airborne) Chaplain. He and his wife Cheri live in the wooded Ozarks hills of SW MO. Presently working on his Doctorate, Danny writes the Feature Articles for K-9 Outfitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises, http://www.Damascus-Road-Enterprises.com K-9 Outfitters offers a plethora of discount, luxury, unique, and handmade in the USA dog supplies.
Author: Danny Presswood
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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The GSD History is of a Very Well Respected and Admired Dog Throughout the World
GSD history, relatively speaking when compared to many of the other breeds of dog, is still that of a very young breed. Captain Max von Stephanitz, a German cavalry officer, developed the German Shepherd Dog breed in 1899, based entirely on his vision of the perfect working dog, one type of dog which could work equally well under any conditions.
GSD history began in just this way. Using a variety of German sheep dogs as his foundation stock, Max von Stephanitz developed a new and distinctive working dog breed, the German Shepherd Dog.
He greatly admired the herding dogs of his native Germany, and believed they had the full potential to be the total all-purpose working dog. Max von Stephanitz was very aware of the historically declining need for herding dogs and believed that the working abilities of the breed would decline unless they were put to other uses.
An idealist with both strong intellect and the financial capabilities to support his ideas, Max von Stephanitz also possessed the determination, drive, and dedication to put his ideas into practice. His perception of a herding dog was of an extremely intelligent, vigorous dog, of stable character and with many of the physical attributes belonging to the wild dog- fleet of foot, long of wind, and untouched by the extremes of other breeds. He was well on his way to beginning the GSD history.
He saw no beauty in a non-functional dog and was ruthless in discarding what he considered weak. Tireless and determined, he laid the foundations of the GSD history that were later to make the breed the greatest all-round working dog in the world.
Until Horand, herding dogs came in a variety of shapes, sizes, types and abilities. Shepherds in Germany like elsewhere in the world, chose their dogs for their fitness, mental and physical, and for work only, and cared little for the dogs appearance. Max von Stephanitz had very positive ideas about the mental, anatomical, and bio- mechanical characteristics required of a herding dog. He had a great understanding of the mental and anatomical requirements of a working shepherd dog.
Very possibly by chance, the beginning of the GSD history started at a dog show in Germany. While at the dog show, a medium-sized yellow-and-gray wolflike dog caught the attention of von Stephanitz, attending the show with his friend Artur Meyer. This dog, Hektor Linksrheim, was immediately purchased by von Stephanitz and renamed Horand von Grafrath. Horand became the first registered German Shepherd Dog, with the number SV1.
Only weeks later von Stephanitz and his friend Artur Meyer founded the Verein für Deutsche Schaferhunde, or SV (German Shepherd Dog Club), along with the help of a few other co-founders. The dog club, the Verein für Deutsche Schäferhunde (SV), was to become the largest and most powerful dog breed club in the world and a major step in GSD history.
A standard for the GSD breed was soon developed based on mental stability and utility. The captain’s motto was “Utility and intelligence”. To him beauty was secondary, and considered a dog worthless if it lacked the intelligence, temperament, and structural efficiency that would make it a good servant of man.
The German Shepherd Dog breed standard was developed as a blueprint listing the exact function and relationship of every aspect of structure, gait, and inherent attitude, combined with a comprehensive breeding regulation, which required that dogs used for breeding had first to prove their worth physically and mentally.
Later, using the co-operation of local police and working dog clubs, a set of specific dog tests were developed in tracking, formal obedience, and protection work. This developed into present day Schutzhund dog trials – another important part of the GSD history. The authorities were persuaded to utilize the German Shepherd Dog in many branches of government service and served during the war as supply carriers, sentinels, Red Cross dogs, messenger dogs, tracking and guard dogs, to name a few.
The GSD historically was just gaining notice in the United States when World War I broke out. In 1917, when America entered World War I, all things German became tabu. The AKC changed the name of the dog breed to the Shepherd Dog and the German Shepherd Dog Club of America became the Shepherd Dog Club of America. In England, the name of the German Shepherd Dog breed was changed to the Alsatian.
After WWI, British and American soldiers, impressed by the abilities of the German Shepherd Dog, brought home examples of their own to breed. The dog breed instantly become popular, both as a family pet and as a working dog. After the war the movie star Rin-Tin-Tin and Strongheart stimulated interest in the GSD history and dog breed again.
The striking good looks of this breed, combined with its remarkable intelligence and loyalty, have made it a favorite working and companion dog. Puppy factories soon flourished to meet the huge demand, flooding the American market with poor quality “German police dogs”, resulting in a down-turn in popularity of the breed.
Later during World War II, the German Shepherd Dog was widely sought after and employed by both Allied and Axis forces. These dogs performed various duties such as mine detectors, sentinels, guard work, and messengers. In America, Dogs for Defense was formed, providing thousands of dogs to the army.
In GSD history the paths of German and American German Shepherds diverged after World War II. Many German Shepherd Dogs had been killed or destroyed due to lack of food. Later on the breeders again had individual dogs dominant in the desired virtues of the breed. By about 1949 quality GSD specimens again began to appear at German dog shows. In the 1950′s American breeders recognized the need for some infusion of outcross blood and Troll von Richterback, 1957 Grand Victor, was dominant in his day.
In the 1960′s there was an emergence of several strong families of stud dogs. This was an important part in rebuilding the GSD historically speaking. While the SV was in control of German bred German Shepherds, American GSD breeders were open to follow their own preferences. American and Canadian Grand Victor, Lance of Fran- Jo, represented a new era in American shepherds and was widely used during the 1960′s. Lance produced many GSD puppies which in turn became historical pillars of the breed in America.
In Germany, GSD history reveals that a very active market soon developed for German Shepherd Dogs and puppies sought in countries such as South America, Japan, Italy, many Scandinavian countries, and France. Additionally, the SV began to place more and more importance on dog training degrees. Temperament and courage tests became much more demanding, and the SV forced breeders to concentrate on puppy and dog problem areas such as missing teeth, poor croups, etc.
Starting with a common base, the German Shepherd breed in Germany and America have taken a separate course. The Americans and the Germans have both evolved closely-bred dogs. They differ in looks, movement, style, and structure and have developed both desirable and undesirable characteristics into the breed.
The Americans have a broader option to pursue their own views and choose their own bloodlines whether from within or outside their own country. The Germans, controlled by the SV, will likely continue to look within themselves to further develop the breed. Today the German Shepherd Dog is still considered one of the most intelligent and versatile breeds in existence and the future will indeed be very interesting for the breed. Indeed, the GSD history has been nothing short of intense so far.
German Shepherds are really incredible dogs. But they’re not for everyone – and if you’re thinking of getting one I highly encourage you to do all the research you can about them ahead of time. One place you can learn about them is at: Total German Shepherd
And if you love to read, why not check out my book, “Your Total German Shepherd Dog” now too? Filled with over 200 pages of “German Shepherd goodness”.
Author: Debbie Ray
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Dog Collars – What You Need To Know
What’s The Best Type Of Dog Collar?
Getting the right dog collar for your dog is one of the most important things you can do for your dog. Your dog will probably spend most of it’s life with it’s collar on, so getting a good comfortable hard wearing dog collar is essential. Luckily for the more style conscious amongst you, modern designer dog collars can be fashionable too! Finding the best type of dog collar for you , will depend on your dog and what the main use for the collar will be.
What is a dog collar for, and is it essential?
The main use for a dog collar is probably the most obvious – controlling your dog. Used in combination with a dog leash, a dog collar can provide you with a certain amount of control to prevent your dog wandering off or straying into road traffic when out walking. There are other uses for a dog collar such as dog or puppy training. Also, you can incorporate your dog’s identity and your contact information within the dogs collar, in the event your dog gets lost.
Choosing the correct size of dog collar is important. Having a collar that is too small can cause your dog harm and at best will leave your dog feeling uncomfortable. Similarly, having a collar that is too big will enable your dog to easily slip out of it. Also, the width and material of the collar neeeds to match the size of your dog or puppy. A heavy duty leather collar will not be much good for a Chihuahua and neither will a lightweight nylon collar be any good on a Rotweiller.
A good rule of thumb, is to make sure that on a large dog, you can slip two fingers between the dogs throat and the collar. Also ensure the collar can rotate easily, but not slip over the dogs ears. On smaller dogs, ensure the collar can rotate easily and does not cause any breathing problems. Make sure it cannot pull over the dogs ears. Remember that in the right situation, many dogs can become little Houdini’s in their own right.
There are many different types of dog collar available. There are sporting collars, designer collars, personalized collars. We will be covering a few main types. These are as follows.
Standard Dog Collar
Dog Training Collars
Electric Dog Collar or Dog Shock Collar
Standard Dog Collar
The standard dog collar is what your dog would wear for everyday use and can come in a variety of materials. Most common these days is the Nylon collar. These come in all sorts of colors and sizes. The main advantage of a nylon collar is it’s price. These collars are very cheap yet provide a superb durability in that they don’t tend to rot and when wet will dry out quickly. Alternative types such as leather collars tend to have a more asthetic natural appeal. A good quality leather collar could easily last the lifetime of your dog. An extension to this are the designer dog collar or fashion collars. These can extend to anything from a simple fashionable pattern or designer name, to a rhinestone dog collar for more special occasions.
The dog collar that you will be using most should be comfortable for your dog and secure, although for lapdogs where the collar can be more of a fashion accessory being comfortable is the priority. For larger dogs, a strong hardwearing collar is a must.
Dog Training Collar
A dog training collar is – as the name suggests – used mainly during training. The type of training will dictate the type of collar.
For obedience training, a choke collar or ‘choke chain’ would be best suited. These collars comprise of a slip loop that tightens around the dogs neck if it pulls on a leash too much. When the dog stops pulling, the chain loosens off. Many people consider the use of a choke collar as unnecessary but used in the right circumstances, this type of collar can be an effective training aid. It is extremely important to only use a choke collar when training and when the dog is supervised. You must NEVER let your dog out alone with a choke collar on. If the dog becomes caught on something they may easily choke themselves.
Electric Dog Collar or Dog Shock Collar
Electric dog collars or as they are sometimes known ‘dog shock collars’ and ‘anti bark collars’ tend to be used to discourage a certain behaviour in a dog. More often than not these are used to control unnecessary barking. These collars consist of a sensor to detect the bark and a pair of electrodes or similar to administer a small harmless shock to the dog. More advanced devices can adjust the level of the shock depending upon how many shocks have been administered before. The main problem with these devices is that the dog is being consistently punished for it’s bad behaviour. This may seem ideal initialy but it is far from this.
Training a dog involves much more than punishing the dog every time it is bad. In fact, using positive reinforcement and praise when the dog stops behaving badly can have a much more positive effect. Getting to the root of the behavioural problem is the best approach. Only then can a preventative training method be implemented. Consider the case of a dog that chews and barks because it misses it’s owner during the day. The barking and chewing is a product of the dog feeling anxious. If the dog recieves an electrical shock every few minutes, that anxious behaviour will be compounded. Read this article for further training information.
For cases where the owner is not present, a far more humane method of discouragement can be implemented. This involves a similar type of collar that detects a bark but the collar releases a natural spray of Citronella that discourages the dogs behaviour. These can be used as a complementary method to other training.
Article By Andrew Strachan. Find lots more information about dog collars and different types of dogs at http://www.types-of-dogs.com Lots of help and advice too.
Author: Andrew Strachan
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Crate Training A Puppy Or Adult Dog
Many people, who unfortunately misunderstand the concept of good crate training, believe that crating a dog for any length of time is cruel and they refuse to even consider it. In fact, a crate really is a wonderful tool when used correctly. Crate training can be fun for the puppy if you make it a POSITIVE experience. I firmly believe it to be the fastest and easiest way to potty train a puppy or even an adult, previously untrained dog.
The majority of new pet owners misconstrue the purpose of a dog crate. It is NOT used to punish a puppy; the puppy should deem the crate to be his safe haven. Once you recognize this fact, you will be able to utilize the puppy’s den to your advantage and build up a proper potty training plan.
When you have a new puppy or dog, you will use a crate to limit his admission to the entire house until he learns all the house rules. A crate is also a secure way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as an opportunity to take him places where it may not be appropriate for him to run without restraint.
Giving the pup special “treats” is a perfect way to introduce him to his crate. The only time the puppy receives these special treats is when he is in the crate; the treats become associated with the crate. Thus, when introduced and used correctly, your dog will think of his crate as his safe haven and he will be happy to spend time there when required. Basically, you need to think like a dog for this to work: normally, a dog never chooses a busy part of the house for his hideaway. He usually selects a dark corner off by himself where he feels sheltered and safe; maybe under a table or chair or between furniture where he is able to see anyone approaching. So, use this concept to your advantage, now that you understand the dog’s purpose for the crate is that it becomes his “den” you can move forward. Remember though, repetition is essential. Your puppy will not understand what you want unless you repeatedly show him exactly what is required of him.
A dog will never make his den dirty. If a dog is correctly trained to love his den, his instinct will be to keep it clean. This is the foremost reason why a crate works in potty training. A dog should always be at ease and safe in his crate and above all he always desires to have a clean environment. A crate must be a positive place where your dog can find security and pleasure. An attractive crate makes for a welcoming den – a comfy blanket, tasty treats, and a favorite toy help to make the pup comfortable. Also very important, the crate needs to be in a place where your dog will not feel as if he is part of the family and not isolated.
Always feed the pup/dog’s regular meals somewhere close to his crate. This will also create a pleasant association with the crate. Some trainers recommend actually feeding meals inside the crate; this too is fine, but my personal preference is to keep food dishes outside. An exception to this could be with a adult dog who initially views the crate negatively; placing meals inside the crate will be a great encouragement to him accepting it. After the dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, begin moving the dishes outside.
To sum up: using a crate correctly, establishes restrictions for your dog when you are away from the house and unable to keep an eye on his behavior. A crate is also a safe area for your dog to be if you’re having company and you have a less than social dog. Another surprising advantage: dogs who are afraid of thunderstorms or fireworks, often find refuge in their familiar crate/den.
Normally a puppy follows a very definite “potty pattern”: when he wakes up in the morning; immediately after meal; when he wakes up from a nap; after he has been playing, or after it has been a while since he last went potty. At each of these strategic points, take the puppy outside to take care of his business. A puppy can not hold it a long time so you must be trained to anticipate his likely needs. Look at it this way, you need to understand that the better trained you become, the better trained your puppy will be.
The last two dogs I have crate trained personally were a six week old female Dalmatian puppy and an adult rescued (badly abused) female Dalmatian. I began the baby in a comfortable, plastic travel crate, while the adult dog was put in a much larger, fold down wire crate. Both crates were situated in the kitchen/dining room which is the most occupied area of the house.
With both dogs, the following schedule was set up and followed faithfully:
Early Morning: Puppy/dog woke up in her crate; I immediately took the puppy/dog outside to the part of the yard we had designated as her “potty area”. Right from the start I began repeating “Quickly, quickly, quickly”, so that she would straight away associate the command with going to potty. Immediately she obliged, I praised her bother verbally and with lots of pats. We then returned to the house and the puppy was given breakfast and the adult dog was given a biscuit. After breakfast we both went back outside for the puppy to go potty while the adult dog went for a walk. Both dogs were then allowed to play safely for a while in the house, then back outside, potty, praise, return into the house, and naptime in the crate.
Afternoon: Puppy/dog woke up again; time to go outside. I immediately began repeating “Quickly, quickly, quickly”, and pretty soon both animals obliged almost instantly and they were rewarded with lots of praise. Back into the house for lunch. Puppy/dog ate lunch the again went outside with me and went potty; lots of praise, then back into the house for playtime. The puppy indulged in lots of activity, while the adult dog socialized with us and explored the house. I allowed this for a given amount of time, then back outside to potty, then back into the crate for naptime.
Evening: Puppy/dog woke up and straight away went outside. Verbally encouraged, then praised, they both quickly went potty and knowing that they had done what was required of them, straight away looked to go back into the house for dinner. Dinner was eaten – back outside. Family social hour – back outside.
This routine WORKS. I will tell you with absolute honesty that in both instances, I didn’t have to clean up a single “accident” with either animal.
At bed time, both animals had a last trip outside then were snuggled up for the night in their crate. When the puppy was very young, I set the alarm and took her outside once during the night. This nocturnal trip depends upon the age of the puppy and some babies may need to go out more than once during the night initially. This improves with age. Remember whenever he or she wakes you up in the middle of the night that your dog is reacting to your training and is actually doing the right thing by asking. Please be patient.
If you work, don’t expect the puppy to wait 10 to 12 hours while you are gone. Make arrangements to go home for lunch, or have a neighbor or friend come over and follow the same routine of potty, praise, and play. As a puppy gets older and can hold it longer, the crate becomes less necessary. Just make sure that if you allow your dog freedom, he is still limited in a safe area. Check for electrical cords and unsafe “chewy” items. Better safe than sorry.
Remember, as your dog gets accustomed to his crate routine and enjoys the security of having his own space, never leave a puppy crated for longer than three or four hours at a time or an adult dog for longer than eight hours. If you crate your dog at night, you should make sure he has plenty of uncrated time during the day.
Even when the pup or dog is no longer confined to the crate, they continue see it as their “den”, their refuge, and I keep it available to them with the entrance door propped open. Whenever they choose to go into the crate, make sure they are left alone; especially make children respect it as the pup or dog’s private place. Dogs love their crates, when they remain available to them they prefer to use them, cuddled into their favorite blanket.
Crates are also a very useful tool to employ as a puppy becomes older and is going through the stage where it is losing its puppy teeth and chewing on everything. Then, it’s a good idea to crate him whenever you are away from the house.
Proper crate training of a puppy shapes the puppy’s behavior positively using his animal instincts to your advantage. Surely, this is much better than accidents on your floor. Remember above all else to be tolerant and consistent in your training. Love your puppy and give him lots of praise when he does it correctly. Dogs love praise; they thrive on it and positive reinforcement works every time.
Remember though, crate is NOT a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog will feel trapped and frustrated. As an example, if your dog is crated all day while you’re at work and then crated again all night, he’s definitely spending far too much time in much too small a space. Also remember that puppies under six months of age should never stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a stretch. They can’t control their functions for longer periods.
If your dog whines or cries when crated at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be taken outside to eliminate. Try to ignore the whining for a few minutes. If your dog is just testing you, he will probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse and will definitely destroy the dog’s confidence in your training. If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he’s learnt to associate with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you’re certain that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don’t give in, otherwise you will just teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you’ve progressed slowly but surely through the training steps and haven’t done too much too fast, you will be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.
You need to be certain the crate is the correct size for the pup/dog. If it is too big, the pup may try to use part of it as a bathroom and this is something you definitely need to avoid. The crate needs to be big enough to allow the dog to stand up and lie down comfortably. If you know your dog is going to grow into a big dog, then consider getting a divider so you will have the proper size crate in the beginning and it can grow along with the dog!
Location is also immensely important. You must be able to hear the pup. If the pup is whining, he probably needs to go potty and should be taken out. Remember the routine outlined above. The crate should be in a room where there is activity.
Crates may be plastic (often referred to as flight kennels) or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores as well as online. All have pros and cons, including cost, ventilation, clean-up, etc.
C. Anne is the author of multiple articles related to the care and nurture of domestic pets. She is an advocate of training by “Positive Reinforcement” and a campaigner against all forms of animal abuse and exploitation.
To visit C. Anne’s pet blog Click ==> http://4petsonline.com
Author: C. Anne Baker
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Dog Aggression: How to Recognize & Respond
Many dog owners are bewildered when they hear their dog growl, bark, or take an aggressive stance. Unfortunately, many of these animals end up in shelters because the owners could no longer live with the dog. Would you give up on your child that easily?
Of course not! When a baby is brought home to his new family, everyone understands that the baby is learning your language and teaching you his. We begin to understand our child?s cry or garbled sounds because we focus on trying to understand him.
Your dog has his own language as well. Understanding dog aggression and your dog?s language will help prevent undesirable behavior and dog bites. Let?s begin our understanding of dog aggression with the acronym DOG BITES:
Dominant
Opportunity
Game
Boy/Girl
Injury
Territorial
Escape
Dominant aggression is also known as competitive aggression. It is brought on when one dog feels challenged for his social position by another dog (or human). Dogs are pack animals. Social order helps feed and protect the pack.
The dog with the highest social order is called the ?alpha? dog. The alpha dog gets all the perks such as eating whatever he wants, sleeping wherever he wants, and dictating to the others in the pack. He decides when the others get to eat and sleep.
Even owners of a single dog may observe dominant aggression since the dog sees the owner as a member of his pack. An example of this type of aggression is demonstrated by the dog who lays on a favorite chair and growls at the owner when told to get down.
The aggression is a challenge for social position and dibs for the seating arrangement. How the owner reacts to the challenge determines whether the dog becomes more aggressive or submissive in the situation.
Here?s a less obvious challenge to an owner?s dominance in the pack?
You are sitting in the living room watching television. Your dog comes up to you and slides his head under your hand. You think your dog is adorable and wants your attention, so you pet him as requested.
Here is the punch line to this situation. Petting is similar to licking. Submissive, less dominant dogs in the pack lick the more dominant dogs. In other words, you were challenged and responded with an ok to be the submissive of the challenge.
Petting (or licking) behavior does not always signify submissiveness. There are other situations when dogs lick, but we will not pursue that topic here. What we will offer here is a suggestion on how to respond to the situation above.
Gently cup your hand over your dog?s muzzle. Rub behind his ears with a little pressure. These actions closely resemble social order biting. Dominant dogs bite the ears, nose, and neck areas of less dominant dogs to keep them in line. Just watch a mother dog with a litter of pups! You?ll see the behavior right away.
Opportunity aggression is aggression that is intended for another dog or person; however, it is redirected to a closer dog or person because the opportunity to attack is better. An example of this type of aggression is demonstrated when trying to break up two fighting dogs. Sometimes, the person breaking up the fight gets bit.
Caution is the best approach to take with opportunity or redirected aggression. If a dog is agitated, it is better to maintain a safe distance until the dog feels less vulnerable and relaxes.
Game aggression is predatory in nature. A dog will chase anything that moves away from it. The dog is a natural hunter of small game. When something runs from a dog, the dog?s chase, hunt, capture, and kill instinct takes over.
A human cannot out run a dog. If a dog attacks, the best course of action is to lie down and play dead. This action is a submissive move.
You have probably seen a dog lie down and bear his vulnerable belly to a more dominant dog. He is communicating to the more dominant dog that he is not a threat to the more dominant dog.
Boy/girl aggression is all about the hormones! This type of aggression is also known as sexual aggression. The male dog protects his female from other dogs and potential threats to his progeny.
Female dogs, however, also display this sexual aggression when they are pregnant, nursing, or in heat. Even the most docile female may growl or attempt to bite anyone who dares to pick up one of her pups too soon!
Sexual aggression is reduced through spaying and neutering. Most veterinarians recommend spaying or neutering your dog during the 6-12 months of age.
Injury aggression is aggression brought on by injury or pain. You might easily see this type of aggression in a dog that has been hit by a car or one who is suffering from age-induced arthritis.
Injury or pain aggression is best handled by seeking medical care for the dog. Try not to touch the painful areas unless absolutely necessary for therapy or to get your dog to safety. Diet, activity, medications, and bedding may help alleviate the pain and therefore, the aggressive behavior.
Territorial aggression is aggression displayed to protect the pack?s territory. The dog?s territory may be much different from your thoughts of the house and backyard. Indeed, if you take him on any walks, he may even consider the whole neighborhood his territory!
When a dog is in a new environment, he may be ?territorial? because he isn?t sure of his surroundings. This is why a dog that is boarded may be ?cage aggressive.? The dog is protecting the small territory of the cage from intruders.
When this is the case, let the dog have his space. He is stressed out and will feel protected in his own area.
Territorial aggression may also be used to protect the pack from perceived external threats. A protective dog is one that shows aggression toward other animals or people when he perceives a threat to his owner or other members of the pack.
A dog may also show territorial aggression with possessions. He will protect anything that he perceives as his. This includes food, bedding, toys, affection, and anything else that is part of his world.
Escape aggression is also called fear aggression. A dog that is afraid will often shake. The ears will probably be all the way back on the head and the tail will be low. He feels powerless and puts up a fight because he feels trapped like he has no where to escape.
This type of aggression may also be brought on by the fear of punishment. Imagine someone standing much taller than you with his hand raised above his head. Is he going to hit me?
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Walking straight toward a dog, giving direct eye contact, or makig sudden movements can trigger fear aggression. Always move slowly around dogs that are afraid. Never give direct eye contact or move right towards a fearful dog.
About the Author: Julie Butts is a Kennel Manager and author of http://www.all-about-small-breed-dogs.com, an online guide for selecting, owning, and raising a small breed dog. Her website is dedicated to small breed dog lovers and includes information on breeds, training, behavior, grooming, supplies, books, gifts, and more.
Read more about dog behavior and dog aggression.
Author: Julie Butts
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Dog Aggression: How to Recognize & Respond
Many dog owners are bewildered when they hear their dog growl, bark, or take an aggressive stance. Unfortunately, many of these animals end up in shelters because the owners could no longer live with the dog. Would you give up on your child that easily?
Of course not! When a baby is brought home to his new family, everyone understands that the baby is learning your language and teaching you his. We begin to understand our child?s cry or garbled sounds because we focus on trying to understand him.
Your dog has his own language as well. Understanding dog aggression and your dog?s language will help prevent undesirable behavior and dog bites. Let?s begin our understanding of dog aggression with the acronym DOG BITES:
Dominant
Opportunity
Game
Boy/Girl
Injury
Territorial
Escape
Dominant aggression is also known as competitive aggression. It is brought on when one dog feels challenged for his social position by another dog (or human). Dogs are pack animals. Social order helps feed and protect the pack.
The dog with the highest social order is called the ?alpha? dog. The alpha dog gets all the perks such as eating whatever he wants, sleeping wherever he wants, and dictating to the others in the pack. He decides when the others get to eat and sleep.
Even owners of a single dog may observe dominant aggression since the dog sees the owner as a member of his pack. An example of this type of aggression is demonstrated by the dog who lays on a favorite chair and growls at the owner when told to get down.
The aggression is a challenge for social position and dibs for the seating arrangement. How the owner reacts to the challenge determines whether the dog becomes more aggressive or submissive in the situation.
Here?s a less obvious challenge to an owner?s dominance in the pack?
You are sitting in the living room watching television. Your dog comes up to you and slides his head under your hand. You think your dog is adorable and wants your attention, so you pet him as requested.
Here is the punch line to this situation. Petting is similar to licking. Submissive, less dominant dogs in the pack lick the more dominant dogs. In other words, you were challenged and responded with an ok to be the submissive of the challenge.
Petting (or licking) behavior does not always signify submissiveness. There are other situations when dogs lick, but we will not pursue that topic here. What we will offer here is a suggestion on how to respond to the situation above.
Gently cup your hand over your dog?s muzzle. Rub behind his ears with a little pressure. These actions closely resemble social order biting. Dominant dogs bite the ears, nose, and neck areas of less dominant dogs to keep them in line. Just watch a mother dog with a litter of pups! You?ll see the behavior right away.
Opportunity aggression is aggression that is intended for another dog or person; however, it is redirected to a closer dog or person because the opportunity to attack is better. An example of this type of aggression is demonstrated when trying to break up two fighting dogs. Sometimes, the person breaking up the fight gets bit.
Caution is the best approach to take with opportunity or redirected aggression. If a dog is agitated, it is better to maintain a safe distance until the dog feels less vulnerable and relaxes.
Game aggression is predatory in nature. A dog will chase anything that moves away from it. The dog is a natural hunter of small game. When something runs from a dog, the dog?s chase, hunt, capture, and kill instinct takes over.
A human cannot out run a dog. If a dog attacks, the best course of action is to lie down and play dead. This action is a submissive move.
You have probably seen a dog lie down and bear his vulnerable belly to a more dominant dog. He is communicating to the more dominant dog that he is not a threat to the more dominant dog.
Boy/girl aggression is all about the hormones! This type of aggression is also known as sexual aggression. The male dog protects his female from other dogs and potential threats to his progeny.
Female dogs, however, also display this sexual aggression when they are pregnant, nursing, or in heat. Even the most docile female may growl or attempt to bite anyone who dares to pick up one of her pups too soon!
Sexual aggression is reduced through spaying and neutering. Most veterinarians recommend spaying or neutering your dog during the 6-12 months of age.
Injury aggression is aggression brought on by injury or pain. You might easily see this type of aggression in a dog that has been hit by a car or one who is suffering from age-induced arthritis.
Injury or pain aggression is best handled by seeking medical care for the dog. Try not to touch the painful areas unless absolutely necessary for therapy or to get your dog to safety. Diet, activity, medications, and bedding may help alleviate the pain and therefore, the aggressive behavior.
Territorial aggression is aggression displayed to protect the pack?s territory. The dog?s territory may be much different from your thoughts of the house and backyard. Indeed, if you take him on any walks, he may even consider the whole neighborhood his territory!
When a dog is in a new environment, he may be ?territorial? because he isn?t sure of his surroundings. This is why a dog that is boarded may be ?cage aggressive.? The dog is protecting the small territory of the cage from intruders.
When this is the case, let the dog have his space. He is stressed out and will feel protected in his own area.
Territorial aggression may also be used to protect the pack from perceived external threats. A protective dog is one that shows aggression toward other animals or people when he perceives a threat to his owner or other members of the pack.
A dog may also show territorial aggression with possessions. He will protect anything that he perceives as his. This includes food, bedding, toys, affection, and anything else that is part of his world.
Escape aggression is also called fear aggression. A dog that is afraid will often shake. The ears will probably be all the way back on the head and the tail will be low. He feels powerless and puts up a fight because he feels trapped like he has no where to escape.
This type of aggression may also be brought on by the fear of punishment. Imagine someone standing much taller than you with his hand raised above his head. Is he going to hit me?
n
Walking straight toward a dog, giving direct eye contact, or makig sudden movements can trigger fear aggression. Always move slowly around dogs that are afraid. Never give direct eye contact or move right towards a fearful dog.
About the Author: Julie Butts is a Kennel Manager and author of http://www.all-about-small-breed-dogs.com, an online guide for selecting, owning, and raising a small breed dog. Her website is dedicated to small breed dog lovers and includes information on breeds, training, behavior, grooming, supplies, books, gifts, and more.
Read more about dog behavior and dog aggression.
Author: Julie Butts
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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